A Little Slice of da Harbor...: Three's Delight

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Three's Delight

I have three delightful things to tell you.

Friday night, just after midnight (okay, so it was Saturday morning then), I saw something large and black bulldoze into the woods after my headlights scared it. A black bear! It looked to be almost a 300 pounder. It was the first bear I've seen this year. I was pumped. But after talking to the teacher at the schoolhouse today, I learned they tackled the bird and deer feeders this morning. So they're not always graceful....

Today, on my walk to the lighthouse, I heard an eagle reek-reeking from the sky, so I looked up to find it. I didn't see the eagle right away, but I sure did see a big mess of sticks in a pine tree. Is that really an eagle nest? As I stared, down fluttered a huge bald eagle. Guess so! In respect of the eagle's privacy, I will not publicly announce where this nest is located. However, if you ever walk with me to the lighthouse, I'll point it out to you.

I saved the best news for last. (It's the best to me at least.) One week from this moment I will be in a place dear to my heart. A place that has no internet, no phone service, no automobiles, no sewer system, no bicycles, no bears and, best of all, no worries. I will be on a giant rock north of the Keweenaw. My favorite vacation spot: Isle Royale.

That's why I've been kayaking -- to practice for this two week trip. We (Brian, Rachel, Craig, Dan and I) are getting dropped off at Windigo Harbor (West end) via the Ranger III, and are padding East to Rock Harbor. Two weeks! I'm so pumped. This is the vacation I will meditate on to stay sane during the Summer.

I do regret, for your sake, that I will be unable to communicate with you during that two week duration. However, I have this handy dandy set up called a notebook and pen to ensure that my adventures are documented. I will share them with you when I return after May 18th.

Trust me, I will be thinking about you, as I do on every adventure I embark on -- mulling over in my brain what would be of most interest to you. I'll be in touch before I leave, but in the mean time, I sure have a lot of packing to do!

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Unofficial Overview from a Resident's Point of View

“If you’ve never been there, you wouldn’t understand” is a quote printed above an outlined picture of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula on a t-shirt sold in gift shops in the area. Some people cock their heads in bewilderment of what this could mean. Well, if you’ve never been there (to da U.P.), then you wouldn’t understand.

It’s simple really. Where are you guaranteed to see more trees than people on any drive or walk? Where can you sit in a bar in April and know everybody’s name? Where can you wear flannel and Carharts anytime of the year without a flinch from a passerby? Where can you end most of your sentence with the colloquialism eh, eh? Where can you go to truly get away from the civilized world? If you answered “da U.P.” to all of these questions, why, you must have been there.

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula makes up one third of the state’s land mass, but only 3% of its entire population. It’s no wonder the average number of people per square mile is 19.3. Nineteen people per square mile! Its lack of inhabitants combined with a plethora of wilderness, unique geographical features and an abundance of water is a big part of what makes the U.P. so unique. In fact, it was included in the Sherman Travel worldwide “Top 10 Places to Go in 2005."

And unique in itself, at the most northern tip in the Keweenaw Peninsula sits the little village of Copper Harbor. “Tops in Michigan,” “the beginning of the road” and quite frankly, the hardest place to leave once your soul has found its peace. It’s the least visited and most revisited place in America. Returning visitors make an appearance at least once a year, no matter what gas prices are. And when they’re back at home, they dream of their next visit to the end of the world.

Why would people want to return to a place where their cell phones don’t work and they can’t get a Big Mac for at least 54 miles? Once you drive through the one and only blinking stop light in town, you are 99% guaranteed not to see any authorities. The town can take care of itself for the most part, and people respect each other and each other’s property.

To the local residents and the handfuls of returning tourists (of which some have been adopted), Copper Harbor is the only place where they can be themselves -- completely and shamelessly (at least until the next morning). Fashion does not exist, but comfort is a must. Possessions mean nothing, but attitude means the world. Loitering is encouraged, and talk is ceaseless. Fresh air is plentiful, and serenity is down the block on Lake Superior’s shore. Ahhh.

Only 90 people can bear to live there year-round (good thing because the post office only has 130 mailboxes), but the population peaks around 250 in the busy summer months when people reopen their business or their summer home.

Copper Harbor and the rest of the Keweenaw Peninsula average 270 inches of snow each season. Whether it falls consistently throughout the winter or all in one dump, it’s guaranteed to fall if it isn’t drilling sideways. Only four businesses stay open through these long months because sometimes, there’s just nobody there.

U.S. Highway 41, which runs all the way to Miami, Florida, begins in Copper Harbor, and yes, it gets plowed the whole way up. A half mile north, six miles east and five miles south of this landmark puts you in magical Lake Superior. I know it’s magical because I’ve caught myself and many other people staring, mesmerized by its pure vastness, undulations and crashing waves.

When you can enjoy every breath of Lake Superior air, wear clothing soley for funtion and not mind seeing the same people day after day after day after day, then, my friend, then, you’ll understand.

A Little Slice of da Harbor...

Copper Harbor, That is!

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Three's Delight

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Unofficial Overview from a Resident's Point of View

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