A Little Slice of da Harbor...: Little Ice Cave

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Little Ice Cave

I wish I brought my camera. But, of course, I was "just going for a little walk to the lake." You know, nothing exciting ever happens there.

The first thing to catch my eye out on a north-facing shore of Lake Superior, was that pack ice had huddled together along the whole coast for 100 yards out! This is the first time I saw ice on the big lake this winter. Any wind will whisk it away, so I'm glad I saw it while I could.

When I look out at this ice, it always looks solid at first glance. But when I stand still and watch carefully, I can see the waves undulating slightly underneath, making the squooshy swishy sounds. Oh, is that marvelous!

To the east I saw a big boulder covered in ice. Nothing major. I had been there before in the summer. But it called to me, so I carefully travelled the icy shore.

When I got to my destination my eyes widened and my jaw dropped. Here before me was a beautiful natural wonder. This "boulder" makes an arc over the water. I remembered sitting on it in the warm months (one of my favorites!). But now, icicles hung from every part of this structure. It was an icicle cave!

I just had to go down into it. The ice below looked solid enough to hold me. I could definitely slide down into this cave, but I had to clear a couple hand-holds so I could pull myself back up.

After I slid down, I got my footing and just marveled at the wonder around me. I wanted so badly for someone to share this beauty with me because who knows how long it will last? White and blue and clear icicle hung 360 degrees around me. I was standing on ice and surrounded by it. I was truly enchanted.

I even crawled down more to the other side of the arc, but I didn't think the ice below was too trustworthy for too long. It was so calm in that hole, I could have had a tea party!

The way up was another story. My hand-hold broke off when I tried to use it, so I had to crawl up on some hanging ice -- fingers crossed that it would hold my weight. From there it was a quick scramble off the slickness to the rocky shore. Whew. I made it. And I'm definitely going back again. Want to come?

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Unofficial Overview from a Resident's Point of View

“If you’ve never been there, you wouldn’t understand” is a quote printed above an outlined picture of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula on a t-shirt sold in gift shops in the area. Some people cock their heads in bewilderment of what this could mean. Well, if you’ve never been there (to da U.P.), then you wouldn’t understand.

It’s simple really. Where are you guaranteed to see more trees than people on any drive or walk? Where can you sit in a bar in April and know everybody’s name? Where can you wear flannel and Carharts anytime of the year without a flinch from a passerby? Where can you end most of your sentence with the colloquialism eh, eh? Where can you go to truly get away from the civilized world? If you answered “da U.P.” to all of these questions, why, you must have been there.

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula makes up one third of the state’s land mass, but only 3% of its entire population. It’s no wonder the average number of people per square mile is 19.3. Nineteen people per square mile! Its lack of inhabitants combined with a plethora of wilderness, unique geographical features and an abundance of water is a big part of what makes the U.P. so unique. In fact, it was included in the Sherman Travel worldwide “Top 10 Places to Go in 2005."

And unique in itself, at the most northern tip in the Keweenaw Peninsula sits the little village of Copper Harbor. “Tops in Michigan,” “the beginning of the road” and quite frankly, the hardest place to leave once your soul has found its peace. It’s the least visited and most revisited place in America. Returning visitors make an appearance at least once a year, no matter what gas prices are. And when they’re back at home, they dream of their next visit to the end of the world.

Why would people want to return to a place where their cell phones don’t work and they can’t get a Big Mac for at least 54 miles? Once you drive through the one and only blinking stop light in town, you are 99% guaranteed not to see any authorities. The town can take care of itself for the most part, and people respect each other and each other’s property.

To the local residents and the handfuls of returning tourists (of which some have been adopted), Copper Harbor is the only place where they can be themselves -- completely and shamelessly (at least until the next morning). Fashion does not exist, but comfort is a must. Possessions mean nothing, but attitude means the world. Loitering is encouraged, and talk is ceaseless. Fresh air is plentiful, and serenity is down the block on Lake Superior’s shore. Ahhh.

Only 90 people can bear to live there year-round (good thing because the post office only has 130 mailboxes), but the population peaks around 250 in the busy summer months when people reopen their business or their summer home.

Copper Harbor and the rest of the Keweenaw Peninsula average 270 inches of snow each season. Whether it falls consistently throughout the winter or all in one dump, it’s guaranteed to fall if it isn’t drilling sideways. Only four businesses stay open through these long months because sometimes, there’s just nobody there.

U.S. Highway 41, which runs all the way to Miami, Florida, begins in Copper Harbor, and yes, it gets plowed the whole way up. A half mile north, six miles east and five miles south of this landmark puts you in magical Lake Superior. I know it’s magical because I’ve caught myself and many other people staring, mesmerized by its pure vastness, undulations and crashing waves.

When you can enjoy every breath of Lake Superior air, wear clothing soley for funtion and not mind seeing the same people day after day after day after day, then, my friend, then, you’ll understand.

A Little Slice of da Harbor...

Copper Harbor, That is!

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Little Ice Cave

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Unofficial Overview from a Resident's Point of View

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